Up Through Damaraland

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This is not the end, but it is the road

At the Sesriem garage I met a man building garages around Namibia. He was a grown up jock, but we had a cool chat. Knowing everything and everyone he asked the fuel truck drivers to take me to Walvis Bay.
The drivers are not allowed to pick up hitchhikers as they transport fuel and are one of the biggest logistical companies in Namibia. They said they would give me a lift to Solitare from where I would hitch further north. I was not allowed to take a photo of the truck as the driver was paranoid I would do something with it. So respecting his wishes I climbed into the truck and listened to the repetitive Owambo music all the way.



Solitare is a very small place with a garage and some tourist attractions. There is a nice bakery where I bought a big cinnamon bun. Solitare is similar to Ronnie’s Sex Shop as it is a place where everyone stops on route to their next destination.

I don’t like asking people for lifts while they refuel. I’ll rather wait outside or next to the road for a lift. Maybe if I was desperate I’d have a different strategy, but standing next to the road worked through out Namibia. This may sound arrogant, but playing the White-card also helps.

Manfred picked me up just outside the Solitare garage. I waited for about 40min. He drove a Corsa bakkie with a Speed and Sound sticker in the back window. With a sticker like that I knew I was in for a ride. We passed all the people that did not pick me up as we were cruising on the gravel roads between 120 – 140km/h in an air conditioned car while listening to loud Nama music.



He was on his way to Swakopmund and at the Kuiseb Pass we made a brief stop. A truck had rolled over the week before and the driver died. The truck was transporting flat rocks and Manfred stopped so that we could pick up the rock for him to build his braai area. While sweating in the sun helping Manfred load rocks the hot French girl and her family drove past. She waved at me smiling as if she could see that today I did not have a hangover though I was twice as dirty.



Manfred dropped me in Swakopmund’s town centre from where I walked to the backpackers and booked in for the weekend

The West Coast Mist In Swakopmund

As I arrived in Swakopmund so to did the mist. This time of the year sees the West Coast being covered in mist.

The first day’s weather was grim and I decided to pay a visit to the museum. I remember this museum from 1997 and I loved all the stuffed animals back then. This time I walked straight past them and read up on Namibia’s mining sector, fishing resources and local tribes.

When you first enter the museum you’re bombarded by German colonialism and stuffed animals. Tourist friendly artifacts for the millions of Germans that visit here. Walking around I wondered where the other cultures and influences towards the modern day Namibia was. And there in a hidden away extended wing you find info on the Himba’s, Owambo’s, San and others. Since my visit in 1997 they extended the museum to cater for everyone.

One thing that stood out for me was at the cashier till where you can buy a sticker of the Old South African Flag, this next to the current Namibian President Hifikepunye Pohamba’s face,

“Does anyone buy this sticker?” I asked the cashier.

“Yes, lots do. Mainly South African’s” she replied.

I assume it’s for those guys that also have blue balls hanging from the back of their bakkies tow-bar or the one’s only brave enough to wear 100% Boer T-shirts in Hartenbos and maybe here in Namibia. I am sure Mr. Pohamba would not approve this sticker in his Government museum. But hey, it’s misty in Swakopmund, why visit now?

At night I went out for a few beers. The town was empty or maybe it was because I went out at 19:00. I was tired and went to bed early.

The next morning I slept late and went for a walk around Swakopmund. I watched the Rugby at a local pub, paid a visit to the aquarium and saw some cool colonial buildings.

That night I went to the local hang out Grunen Kranz and played pool till the place closed.

When I arrived I played pool with Goofy. Goofy thought he was a mean gangster and told me about all his criminal records, showed me his petrol bomb scars and 8 ball tattoos. It feels good when you beat a mean gangster at pool. I only won the first game and he won the next two till his brother apparently phoned to use his gun. Goofy left the pool table and I was joined by some of the locals. We played till late and I could see my pool partners becoming drunk as the night progressed. By the time the place closed I was on their level and walked down to the Backpackers to pass out in my tent.

I was up late and decided to go view the flamingos in Walvis Bay. Walvis Bay is the harbour port of Namibia and is about 30km south of Swakopmund. Two lifts later and I was dropped of at the flamingos. I walked around and snapped some shots. From there it was three lifts back to Swakopmund.

Arriving back at the Backpackers I met up with some German girls. They were going to eat out at the Lighthouse Restaurant and invited me to join them. I’ve mentioned this before on my Southern Africa trip: “seeing a good looking girl in Africa is like spotting a Leopard in the Serengeti. They are there, but hard to find”. I only saw the French girl thus far, so when four girls invite you out you say: Hell yes! They were really cool and we had a good party (even though none of them could play pool).

The weekend was over and I was ready to leave the mist. On Monday morning I walked to the station and booked a ticket for the night train to Windhoek. Taking the bus would be much quicker but almost triple the price. I wanted to investigate the Namibian trains. The train travels through the night arriving in Windhoek early the next morning. I was over hitchhiking and thought I could take the train from Swakopmund to Windhoek then south to Keetmanshoop and further on to South Africa, but soon found out that this option did no longer exist.